contemporary LUXURY 01
contemporary LUXURY 01 [ VOLUME 1, THE E YEWEAR ISSUE, 2009 ]
Contemporary Luxury [volume 01, the eyewear issue] informs, amazes, excites, sometimes surprises, seduces, reveals but most of all inspires. It’s a tribute to the beautiful things in life and the people behind it. In this first issue both the remake of old skool sunglasses as well as the release of new exciting eyewear or the opening of great stores are all worth mentioning. Luxury is not about money. The best things in life doesn’t even have a price. But the word should not be misused like it has been in the last decade when luxury became a lie or just a “suggestion of” because of a brand name. Contemporary Luxury is about real luxury regardless price or name and will continue searching for the undiscovered treasures that surprise and amaze us. Always celebrating the beauty of original designs, ideas, projects, campaigns and thoughts. [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
Contemporary Luxury [ volume 01, the eyewear issue ] is published by Not Just Vision. Next volumes featuring other issues will appear a few times a year. For more information and subscriptions please contact notjustvision@gmail.com Publisher Not Just Vision Editor in Chief Dick van der Niet Art Director Tonny Sampiemon Contributions Marja Hermes Thijs Hoozemans Constant Fonk Allard Honigh Bastiaan van Schaik Jeroen Snijders Address Not Just Vision Haarlemmermeerstraat 26 1058 KA Amsterdam The Netherlands Print Koninklijke Broese & Peereboom bv Any reproduction of editorial material is strictly prohibited without prior permission from the publisher. Not Just Vision is a strategy consultancy agency & publisher focused on the optical industry. We work for major players in the market, both suppliers and stores, guiding them to a more contemporary approach of this business and supporting them in developing the appropriate tools to become even more successful. Our work includes the restyling of stores, the development of corporate images, public relations, events, experiences, fashion shows, magazines and advertising campaigns. www.notjustvision.com Powered by
005 [ REVEALING ] 010 ECO friendly eyewear 032 Watch the Aspen One 044 Designed to Protect 048 Carbon & Fibreglass 066 ic!berlin meets Freitag 096 Exemplary Danish 107 A Tribute to Paris 108 Black is Beautiful 116 At your Service 120 The Perfect Dress [ INFORMING ] 016 The 100 Most Important People in the Eyewear Industry
[ INSPIRING ] 100 Black is Back, New York 102 Down to Earth, Milan 104 True Colours, Paris 110 Amsterdam Fashion Week Badgley Mischka 122 Loonen Brillenmakers 124 Mykita 126 High Tec 128 Hoet [ SEDUCING ] 050 Cicely Telman 068 Modern Vintage 082 25 Sunny Years [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
007 [ AMAZING ] 008 Legendary campaign still alive 035 Exhibiting Persol 046 Everyone can change the future 064 Celebrating 40 Years of Couture Eyewear 080 Nostalgic Moments [ SURPRISE ] 012 Dutch Design 118 Eyewear made to measure [ EXCITING ] 034 Partytime 106 Trendsetting
009 [ AMAZING ] LEGENDARY campaign This year L.A. based brand l.a.Eyeworks celebrates its 30th anniversary. From 1979 they surprise us again and again with colourful frames and sunglasses, most of them inspired by their close connections to the world of arts and design. One of their best ideas, besides all the great eyewear, was the launch of a legendary advertising campaign which today is not only still alive but also as actual and contemporary as if it was invented yesterday. Indeed, “a face is like a work of art…it deserves a great frame”. Over the years many celebrities were photographed for this unique campaign including Andy Warhol, Brian Ferry, Dame Edna, Martina Navratilova, Pierce Brosnan, Rutger Hauer, Sharon Stone, Stephen Sprouse, Rufus Wainwright, Phillip Glass, Pedro Almodovar and most recently Phillipe Blond, of the famous fashion design duo The Blonds, wearing the sizzling Kowalski frame. Wanna see all of them? Just have a look at all the faces on l.a.Eyeworks website: still alive www.laeyeworks.com [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
010 [ REVEALING ] ECO [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] Introducing ECO; earth-conscious optics from recycled stainless steel and repurposed plastic. ECO works to repurpose, recycle or reuse materials throughout every step of the product lifecycle boasting a 360-approach to sustainability without sacrificing quality, design or price. The collection is packed in recycled materials and each new pair is accompanied by an easy to use mailin recycling kit for old, unwanted frames. For each pair of ECO frames purchased, MODO donates one new tree to Trees for the Future, a non-profit organization that has been helping communities around the world plant trees since 1989. www.modo.com
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
013 [ SURPRISING ]
014 [ SURPRISING ] Dutch designer Ralph Vaessen focuses on exclusive eyewear made of handcrafted horn. His designs are sold in a few selected stores worldwide including some of the best fashion boutiques and signature opticians. www.ralphvaessen.com
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
001 [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
017 [ INFORMING ] THE100 MOST IMPORTANT PEOPLE IN THE EYEWEAR INDUSTRY In the last few decades the optical industry has changed dramatically. The entrance of discounting chains, the overflow of fashion brands which used eyewear as their milking cow and the decrease in quality on one hand and innovations and an increase in advertising and media coverage on the other hand challenged everyone involved in this business. We apologize for being subjective. This list indeed is our interpretation. In case you feel ignored, don’t hesitate to tell us and please keep us updated about your contributions to this industry. We will renew this list again and again and are always eager to meet new players. 001 Ranking the players in this game is not an easy job. Of course it is easy to detect the mayor players like Luxottica and Essilor. But it was Silhouette which introduced the best sold glasses of the century and David’s like Ralph Anderl, Mr. Cutler and Mr. Gross, Sheila Vance and the Mykita guys continue to fight Goliath and in fact today they seem more successful as ever before. For us, all 100 people on this list are important whether ranked first or last. Together they drive this industry, all playing their own part. In fact, they can’t do without another. Leonardo del Vecchio founded Luxottica in 1961. Today the company has a worldwide sales of more as 5 billion euro, a wholesale division with housebrands like Ray-Ban and Persol, a portfolio of licenses including Prada, Chanel and Dolce & Gabbana and more as 6.000 own stores worldwide including famous retail concepts like Sunglass Hut. Leonardo del Vecchio is a league of his own and really the only option to be ranked 1 in this overview.
018 012 002 008 Carl Zeiss Vision was founded in 2005 when Carl Zeiss and Sola combined their business. Today the company has more as 10.000 employees and delivers 150 million lenses a year. After the leave of Dr. Norbert Gorny, Dr. Arne Frank has been appointed as the interim CEO of Carl Zeiss Vision. 012 009 002 In 2004 Luxottica appointed Andrea Guerra as the CEO of the Luxottica Group. Since he leads the company in close cooperation with its founder Leonardo del Vecchio. During his leadership Luxottica continued the expansion of its retail activities on different continents, acquired Oakley and Oliver Peoples and a few new and interesting licenses. 003 The French company Essilor was founded in 1972. With a yearly turnover of 3 billion euro the company certainly is the world leader in prescription lenses. The company’s CEO, Xavier Fontanet, strengthened its position in recent years by acquiring many laboratories and by introducing a continuous range of premium products. Of course he didn’t do that all by himself but was supported by a team including the company’s COO’s Philippe Alfroid and Hubert Saignières and the Presidents of the Europe region and Essilor of America respectively Bertrand Roy and Jean Carrier-Guillomet. [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] On behalf of HAL Investments Mr. M.F. Groot is a member of the executive boards of Pearle Europe and Grandvision which retail companies are both owned by HAL. Together they have more as 3800 stores on different continents. In 2006 Mr. Groot received 50.000 HAL shares for free under the condition that he would stay another 5 years with HAL. G. van de Weerdhoff is the current CEO of Pearle which today owns a variety of retail brands on different continents with all together more as 2.600 stores of which approximately 26% is a franchisee. In 2008 the Group generated worldwide sales of € 1.435 million. T.A. Kiesselbach is the CEO of Grandvision which 1.235 stores and brands spread over 19 countries. In 2008 sales totalled € 930 million.
016 016 012 Vittorio Tabacchi is not only the founder and main shareholder of Italian eyewear manufacturer Safilo, he is also the President of both MIDO and ANFAO which organizations profit from his long time experience in the industry. Safilo has a yearly sales of more as 1 billion euro. The company’s CEO Roberto Vedovotto used to work for Safilo earlier and returned after a few years with Lehman Brothers were he was the Chairman of the European Luxury Goods in the Investments Banking Division. According to the press releases he has got all freedom to find a way to solve Safilo’s financial problems and lead the company into a more promising future. 014 Vistakon’s CEO Michael Sneed started his career with Johnson & Johnson in 1983 and held positions of increasingly responsibility ever since. In January 2007 he was appointed as CEO of Johnson & Johnson Vision Care. 015 HOYA Vision Care is the world’s third largest supplier of lenses and the absolute market leader in Japan. Gerald W. Bottero has been President and CEO of HOYA Vision Care since 2005 after a career with HOYA in the United States. 016 Rick Elias has been part of Transitions Optical since its inception, first as VicePresident Marketing and Sales and since 1995 as President and CEO. Brett Craig joined Transitions Optical in 1999 as General Manager Asia Pacific. After being responsible for the EMEA region, he became COO and in 2009 he was appointed President of the company. 015
020 018 Bausch & Lomb chairman and CEO Gerald M. Ostrov worked for Johnson & Johnson Vision Care from 1998 until 2006 before he was appointed in his current position. [ INFORMING ] 025 019 After several other global positions within the company and being the company’s COO prior to her appointment, Andrea Saia was named CEO of Ciba Vision in February 2008. 020 Cooper Vision is the contactlens division of Cooper Companies. It’s President is John A. Weber while Jeffrey McLean as the Executive Vice President is responsible for the division’s commercial strategies. Dennis J. Murphy and Andrew Sedgwick are as Presidents responsible for the Americas and the EMEA region respectively. 024 Günther Fielmann opened the first Fielmann store in 1972. By the end of 2008 the company owned 620 stores and sold 6,1 million spectacles resulting in a turnover of € 1.058 million. Remarkable is the average turnover of a Fielmann store which is about € 1,6 million. 019
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] 025 025 025 Maurizio and Cirillo Coffen Marcolin are the sons of Marcolin founder Giovanni Marcolin Coffen. In the eighties Cirillo joined the company, followed later by Maurizio. Today the two brothers share the CEO-ship of the company which is still partly owned by the family and hold chairs in major Italian eyewear business organizations like Anfao and Mido. As the Managing Director and General Manager of Marcolin, Massimo Saracchi is in charge of all the daily business of the company which more and more develops into what Maurizio Marcolin once described as a premium boutique eyewear manufacturer. 029 Al Berg and Larry Roth sold their company Marchon recently to VSP but stayed to develop the company’s portfolio and business in the next years. Their roles have changed especially in Europe where the company appointed a new management but their influence is still undeniable. Berg is still the official CEO of the entire company and Roth is in charge of the operations in the United States. After a career as initially President and CEO of Safilo USA and finally CEO of Safilo worldwide, Claudio Gottardi recently moved to Marchon where he became the President and CEO for Marchon International. He gets support from Nicola Zotta who also moved from Safilo to Marchon to become the company’s Vice-President and Managing Director of the EMEA region. 033 As CEO of the The Rigo Group which consists of the The Rigo Vision eyewear production and distribution as well as of the retail chains Dollond and Aitchison and General Optica, Ennio de Rigo plays an important role in both the sales and distribution of eyewear with a strong focus on Europe. 034 Founded in 1978, Stylemark is now one of the largest manufacturers and distributors of sunglasses worldwide shipping more than 70 million pairs annually. In 2007, CEO Mark Ascik, who started his career at the company as a sales rep in the seventies, acquired Polaroid Eyewear and later that same year merged with Motive Eyewear. The company also owns Lantis Eyewear and Riviera Trading. 034 [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
036 035 In recent years the Rodenstock family sold a part of its shares in the company to investors and today the lens and eyewear manufacturer is mainly owned by investment company Bridgepoint which is also the main shareholder of Alain Afflelou. Last year, Olaf Göttgens with experience at Mercedes-Benz and BBDO, became the new CEO of the company. 036 Today Klaus and Arnold Schmied run Silhouette which was founded in 1964 by their parents Anneliese and Arnold Schmied. Since then the company again and again surprises the industry with innovative concepts and new points of view. 036 040 Only when he himself, as an optician, needed a pair of glasses, he realized that what he liked wasn’t available yet. It was the start of what is now one of the leading eyewear companies in the world. In the mean time Poul-Jorn Lindberg handed over he daily management of the company to his son Henrik Lindberg. 042 Only very recently Charmant Inc. appointed Masao Miyachi as the company’s new President and CEO. Mr. Miyachi has been with Charmant since 1980 and spent 29 years in sales and marketing positions. Charmant’s founder Kaoru Horikawa and his son Junji Horikawa today are both members of the board of directors. 035
023 045 Before entering the optical business Antonio Bortuzzo was a senior partner of Ernst & Young. He left to join Marcolin where he worked 5 years and finally as a CEO focused mainly on the US operations. December 2007 he left Marcolin to join Allison as the new CEO. [ INFORMING ] 042 046 Dan Emanuel Levi currently has the position of CEO of Italian manufacturer Visibilia and is the Vice-President of the MIDO, one of the most important eyewear exhibitions in the world. 042 047 Frank Rescigna used to have important positions at companies like Charmant and Marcolin and today is the International Group President of Viva 048 As CEO of German based Eschenbach, Wolfgang Rebstock recently acquired the license of Marc O’Polo which probably reflects the company’s determination to become an even more important player in the eyewear field besides it’s worldwide leadership in low vision products. 040 040 [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
024 049 Hermann Müller Menrad and Eberhard Müller Menrad are the fourth generation of the Menrad family. They currently share the management of the German company in close cooperation with Jens Gräfe. [ INFORMING ] 053 052 MODO CEO Allessandro Lanaro leads the New York based eyewear manufacturer into a new era. The company seems to have a good sense for trendy brands and added Derek Lam, Phillip Lim and Fabien Baron to its existing portfolio of own labels. Only recently it announced the acquisition of the eyewear license of 7 for all Mankind and there is more to come. 053 One of the best eyewear designers of the world, Gerhard Fuchs, became world famous with his Titan Minimal Art series for Silhouette but is also the man behind the functional designs of the adidas eyewear collection. 054 Just like many eyewear designers Larry Leight is a skilled optician. Besides designing for his own labels Oliver Peoples and Mosley Tribes and its licence Paul Smith, he worked for Prada, Miu Miu, Jill Sander, Helmut Lang and Vera Wang. He is a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. 052
059 059 055 Renowned designer Sheila Vance founded Sama Eyewear in a way to fund the Sam Vance Foundation which she founded in memory of her son who lost his life to heroin experimentation while only nineteen years old. Today she designs for her own Sama brand, for Badgley Mischka and for Loree Rodkin. Determined to fight against the awful average and even worse designs which spoil the markets, her designs are pure luxury and recognized and demanded by more and more people. 056 Earlier this year Alain Mikli sold part of his company shares to an investment company and Dominique Alba. His easy to recognize designs became popular and his cooperation with the famous designer Philippe Starck led to a complete new line and a range of stores all over the world. Alba is supposed to lead Alain Mikli into a new era of success. 058 In the last years David Schulte as CEO contributed largely to the position of Oliver Peoples as one of the most renowned and respected premium brands in the market. As the company is recently acquired by Luxottica we will carefully watch whether this Big Brother will allow him to continue his policy of design and product quality and exclusive distribution or not. 059 055 In 1988 six Belgian fashion designers became known and famous as the Antwerp Six. Their success inspired Wim Somers and Patrick Hoet to found Theo. With their complete own approach and recognizable designs they conquered the optical world and became famous like their fashion counterparts. After twenty years of design Theo is still in front. Patrick gave his name to a small own Hoet collection, designed many other accessories and was responsible for the interior of several optical stores worldwide including the two Theo stores in Belgium. [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
063
027 061 Christian Roth and Eric Domège first met in New York in 1983. In 1984 they founded Optical Affairs which they sold to Charmant in 1997. This year the Christian Roth and Eric Domège brand celebrates its 25 anniversary with some great remakes and a few brand new designs. [ INFORMING ] 063 Ralph Anderl founded ic!berlin in 1997 and instantly shocked the industry with his designs and performances. Always rebellious, never in line with what you expect, the man and the company again and again surprised with unmatched fair presentations and cutting-edge cooperations with other designers. 064 This year Graham Cutler and Tony Gross celebrate the 40th anniversary of their company. Adored by celebrities, fashion addicts and those who love eyewear design, the two always stayed true to their own roots. Their style is legendary as well as the uncompromised quality of the collection. 066 Larry Sands, Troy Schmidt and Cosmas Lykos are partners in the wholesale operations of the Optical Shop of Aspen. In 2004 Sands and Schmidt sold their retail activities to Oakley to concentrate on the development of their luxury brands Chrome Hearts and Blinde. In 2008, Cosmas Lykos, former Vice-President Business Development of Oakley joined them and together they are determined to become the outstanding reference in luxury eyewear worldwide. 061 061 [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
073 077 069 In 2001 Paul Frank knocked at Shane Baum’s door and Baumvision was born. Shortly after Shane signed licences with Modern Amusement and Original Penquin and today the company sells frames and sunglasses all over the world. It is that specific mix of high and low culture that defines Shane, his company and his designs. It’s a kind of new luxury which he himself lives to the max and inspires others like us to do the same. 070 Gerry and Shirley Hundert purchased REM Eyewear in 1971 and their son and current CEO Mike Hundert transformed the company into an international eyewear design house with distribution in 61 countries. Mike also serves as an officer for the Vision Council of America. 073 Mykita was founded in 2003 by Harald Gottschling, Daniel Haffmans, Philipp Haffmans and Moritz Krueger and although Mykita sounds a bit Asian, the name is derived from the first company premises, a former day-care centre for children, in East-Germany abbreviated to “Kita”. Today the company has a worldwide distribution and a few own stores. 077 Most French brands add colour and a certain touch of freshness to the market and Anne et Valentin is no exception. For Anne Valentin, everyone is unique and her designs should underline this uniqueness. Thanks to the vision and strategy of Managing Director Christoph Gilabert, over the last years the brand got a stronger an more defined position mixing the traditional Anne et Valentin values with a more contemporary design. 069
029 [ INFORMING ] 084 081 079 Their love for art and design and their personal appearances has made them famous. Barbara McReynolds and Gai Gherardi of l.a.Eyeworks developed a complete own style that has never been matched by anyone else in the market. None of the three owners of Orgreen; Henrik Orgreen, Gregers Fastrup and Tobias Wandrup have had a formal training as optician but instinctively they knew what spectacle and sunglass wearers were looking for. After a struggle of ten years the company now is a renowned and well-established manufacturer with a clear design signature, offices in Denmark and Japan and sales in 40 countries worldwide. 084 With almost 30 years of eyewear experience and as a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Robert Marc has earned his position in this list. His first own store is considered to be one of the first high-end eyewear boutiques bringing eyewear to the forefront of fashion. In 1999 he launched his first own collection for which Vogue announced “Robert makes his Marc” 085 SILMO President Guy Charlot has held this position since 1993 and was re-elected in 2007. He is supported by the fair’s Managing Director Eric Lenoir who travels the world to meet the industry leaders and feel the pulse of the branch at fairs all over the world. 081 [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
030 087 In 1984 Doug and Mary Perkins founded Specsavers and have expanded since to more as 1.400 stores today. Low prices and an aggressive marketing policy are still the main factors for the success of the company. [ INFORMING ] 087 089 Alain Afflelou opened his first store in France in 1972 and today the company has a total of almost 1.000 stores in 10 countries in Europe and Africa. Just like other discounting companies Afflelou changed the perception of eyewear creating a gap between those who see eyewear as a necessary tool and those who like it as a fashion accessory. 090 Nicolas Roseillier flexed his muscles as founder of Les Marrons, a company specializing in architecture and product design and then spent three years as creative director for MODO. He recently moved to REM to oversee the product design and development of all REM brands including the brands belonging to the company’s luxury division Base Curve. 091 Blake Kuwahara is a member of the Council of Fashion Designers of America and has designed eyewear for KATA, John Varvatos, Carolina Herrera, Izaac Mizrahi, Hanae Mori, Behnaz Sarafpour as well as for Converse, Liz Claiborne and Jones New York. He received multiple awards for his work and recently left REM Eyewear to found a new company together with Thomas Ferguson, a fellow designer who started his design career as Blake’s assistant. Focus Group West is a branding and design company specialized in the development of eyewear collections. 091 091 [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
093 093 093 Over the years the different industry organizations in the United States of America merged together into one major organization called The Vision Council. It’s main goal is to enhance life through a better vision. The Vision Council’s CEO is Ed Greene. Maureen Beddis is the Senior Director of Marketing and Communications, Greg Chavez as a Vice-President is responsible for all member services and Deborah Malakoff-Castor is Vice-President shows. 097 Dominique Pinton is the owner and chairman of Francois Pinton and the current President of the Syndicat National Lunettes de France, the French union of eyewear manufacturers and suppliers. 098 Being a store in Paris originally and transformed in 1972 into a real brand, today Lafont exports its collections to many countries worldwide. The family company is directed by the two brothers Thomas and Matthieu Lafont. 100 In her position as Vice President Strategic Accounts of International Vision Expo Valerie Scott is one of the driving forces behind the most important optical fairs in the Americas. 093 093 098
032 032 [ NEWS - ACTUALITY ] [ REVEALING ] Watch Watch “Meet me at the top” could be taken literally by all owners of an Aspen One watch. All of them get their name engraved in their personal watch as well as on the Aspen One monument, a carefully selected rock on the back side of Aspen Mountain. The watch comes with specially designed gloves to keep your hands warm and allowing you to look at the time easily. Four o’clock it is time to change from slope to après-ski and for that reason this hour is marked in orange at each watch. It is also the sign to change the rubber ski strap for a distinguishing leather one. Of course with one simple click, patented and exactly the same way you connect your skis to your shoes. Aspen One founder René van Ass plans an Aspen One eyewear line as well. Exclusive, sporty and elegant! www.aspenjewelryandwatches.com [ THE EYEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
034 [ EXCITING ] When you were lucky enough this year to spent some time at Ibiza, Sardegna, Sicily or whatever party place in the world you certainly didn’t miss the Carrera old skool trend. Available in all kind of colours these sunglasses dominated beaches and clubs in Italy and far abroad and promise to do so for at least one other year… we love them! www.carrerasport.com PARTYTIME
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] Persol www.persol.com Exhibiting Persol invited nine talented contemporary artists from all over the world to enter their new communication project A work of Persol. The idea was to show how much both Persol and the artists use their manual skills, their culture and roots as well as their passion and dedication to create unique work. Both Persol and the artists design and craft with care, technique and skilled hands. All artists exhibited at the Persol exhibition during the 48th Milan Design Week 2009 and could be seen in this years advertising campaign of the Italian eyewear brand. We take the opportunity to introduce a few of them… 035 [ AMAZING ]
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] Jonathan Jones created Untitled (heads or tails) for A work of Persol
037 [ AMAZING ] “Everything starts collapsing and reducing more and more and more, but the stories become bigger and bigger and bigger and the narratives and the possibilities and the ideas just become immense. It is that amazing process.” Jonathan Jones Born in 1978, Sydney, Australia Jonathan Jones is a collaborative installation artist, who works with light and line in an effort to create representations of the symbiotic relationship of the individual and community. Jones’s materials are similarly simple in substance and equally complex in meaning. His work appears monochromatic, based around alternations of black and white, dark and light, elaborated and negative spaces. But to spend some time with the work is to recognize it is much more inflected, complex and subtle. Each of the motifs he uses has its own meaning and is place specific; each has a long lineage. He has taken these motifs and given them a new context. Like the nineteenth century artists, he has acted as someone who transmits culture, reiterating and reforming its patterns and meanings in the present. Collaborative exhibitions include 2004 with Darren Dale and David Page at Australian Centre for the Moving Image, Melbourne, The Sound of Missing Objects in 2003 with Ilaria Vanni and Panos Couros and Reckonings in 2001 with Nuha Sadd, Ruark Lewis and Romaine Morton, both at The Performance Space, Sydney, and Red Out in 2002 a collaborative exhibition with Jim Vivieaere, Contemporary Art Foundation of Auckland, New Zealand.
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] For a work of Persol she created Mindfield
039 [ AMAZING ] “I wanted to find the way to portray the mind, which is something totally invisible, so that I work with the body of a performer, but if you want to give it a structure, it’s sort of impossible.” Marcella Vanzo Born in 1973, Milan, Italy After obtaining a degree in anthropology, Marcella Vanzo graduated from the Accademia di Brera in Milan. Her work focuses on video installations, performance and photography. Dense synthetic images, tied to preverbal issues, take form in Marcella Vanzo’s work. Her work expresses with immediacy the need for consciousness about family models or social roles that inform us without our will, models to be freed from. Vanzo expresses the contradiction that lies at the core of deep relations. The emotional tension of each situation she creates is amplified by intense sound elements. On one side, her attention is fixed on subjective individuation issues; on the other it includes issues about norms and social control as conditioning elements of the individual. Where does reality end and where does the game start? It is difficult to draw the line. Her selected group shows include: “Exit,” Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, Turin, Italy, 2002; “Private Architectures,” Galleria Continua (S. Gimignano), 2003; “Assab One,” Milan, 2004; “Aperto per lavori in corso,” Pavilion for Contemporary Art in Milan, 2005; and Ecce Uomo,” now showing at Spazio Oberdan, Milan. “Limbo,” her second solo show, is currently on at Studio Guenzani, Milan. She won the Emerging Artist Prize awarded by ACACIA (the Italian Association of Friends of Contemporary Art) in 2004. Her work is part of the permanent collection of the Pavilion for Contemporary Art in Milan, of the Castello di Ama per l’arte contemporanea in Siena, Italy, and the ACACIA fund.
“I think it’s about making, feeling the energy and the need to make new visuals, to recreate the world, to recreate the conversation and extend that into whatever that’s out there.” Modou Dieng Born in 1970, Saint-Louis, Senegal “My work is both a denunciation and a celebration of our lifestyle. Because we live in a postmodern period, we’ve reached a stage in world history and in our own lives in which art must at the same time serve as a tool for serious aesthetic and visual work but also as a frivolous, useless object of contemplation. These two sets of values (useful and useless / serious and frivolous) are not irreconcilable; they interact in a constant dialectic, because they inspire, influence and complement one another. I address these issues through my choice of materials, which are mostly domestic objects. As the critic David Hickey has said, art is cheap but priceless at the same time. Dieng has had solo exhibitions at IFAN Museum in Dakar, Senegal, 2000; at Pascal Polar gallery, Brussels, Belgium, 2003; Université Catholique Museum in Louvainla-Neuve, Belgium, 2003 and Hovercraft productions Gallery in Portland, Oregon, 2006. Dieng has participated in numerous group exhibitions in Africa, Europe, and the United States, including the Biennale Dak’Art ’02, Dakar, Senegal, 2002; Globalization and the African World at Gettysburg College, Pennsylvania, 2003; Art Paris, Carroussel du Louvre, Paris, France, 2003 and Here and There, Casa Encendida Museum, Madrid, Spain, 2005. For a work of Persol he created Charlie
041 [ AMAZING ] [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
“I think as an artist, you have to ask yourself what you like to do, and I do like to cut. I’m interested in making portraits but I don’t want to have anybody in the portrait, I actually want the viewer to become the portrait, so the inside of the mirror is black and when the viewer looks at the piece, he sees his reflection in the black…” Francesca Gabbiani Born in 1965, Montreal, Canada For a work of Persol she created The Last Mojo
043 [ AMAZING ] Gabbiani presents a body of luminous and cinematic works on paper. The images are depictions of fiery landscapes and decadent interiors that create scenes that are dreamy and dangerous, sinister and disarming. Her current work explores memories that are frozen in time and space, creating brilliant moments of intensity. The idea of memory lies at the core of Gabbiani’s investigation. She is interested in creating a space that feels familiar yet uncanny; as though the viewer is visiting a new place he or she has already seen. Gabbiani’s landscapes portray billowing fires and blowing leaves. The colors are vibrant and charged with energy as nature is set in motion. Intricate borders surround the images like elegant frames, capturing the moment of a forest fire or windstorm. The artist works skilfully with the interplay between light and shadow, an interest that is also apparent in her detailed interiors, which appear to be candlelit. Her working methods are quite complex as layers of paper are intricately cut out and collaged on top of one another. This process is a breaking down of an image through color and then reconstructing that image through layering. These layers create a depth and perspective that is both painterly and sculptural. Gabbiani directs the material, colored paper, to have dramatic effects. She is constructing memory in the most literal sense, piecing together images that are full of desire and suspense. [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] Protect Designed to
045 [ REVEALING ] Adidas Eyewear has a reputation of being amongst the most functional accessories for athletes around the world. Combining excellent protection, state of the art techniques and amazing design, the new TERREXpro is the absolute musthave on each and every slope this Winter. www.adidas.com/eyewear [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
I t a l i a n j e w e l l e r B u l - g a r i c e l e b r a t e s i t s 1 2 5 t h a n n i v e r s a r y a n d d e c i d e d t o u s e t h e o p p o r t u n i t y t o p a r t i c i p a t e i n t h e “ S a v e t h e C h i l d r e n ’ s < R e w r i t e t h e F u t u r e > ” c a m p a i g n w h i c h i s a i m e d t o p r o v i d e e d u c a t i o n a n d t h u s a b e t t e r f u t u r e t o m i l l i o n s o f c h i l d r e n s u f f e r i n g f r o m t h e c o n s e q u e n c e s o f w a r s a n d c o n f l i c t s .
047 [ AMAZING ] EVERYONE CAN CHANGE the future The company aims to collect 10 million euros. For that reason it designed a silver ring and each of these rings will finally be transformed into schools, teacher training courses and programs to protect children from violence and to reintegrate child-soldiers into society. In addition Bulgari created a limited collection of high jewellery and watches with an overall value of 3 million euros. This collection will initially be presented in Rome at the retrospective hosted by the Palazzo delle Esposizione in celebration of the brand’s anniversary and later at several Bulgari events around the world, after which it will be auctioned in New York at the end of this year, with all proceeds going directly to Save the Children. Numerous celebrities support this initiative and we encourage all our readers to do the same. Rewriting the Future is rather easy when we all contribute a little bit! The silver ring is on sale for only 290 euros until the end of this year in all Bulgari stores and in some department stores worldwide. www.bulgari.com/125anniversary [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
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049 [ REVEALING ] Carbon and fibreglass are used in products where lightness and strength are determining factors; airplanes, formula 1 racing cars, motorcycles, boats, knee joints, surfboards, windmills and in the space travel industry. Ray and Charles Eames created their famous Fiberglass Chair in 1948 and Verner Panton used it for his Classic Chair in 1960. It’s a challenge to use these materials for eyewear because they can’t be bended or adjusted. Nevertheless designer Claus Bellinger and his team, fascinated by sportcars and innovative materials and techniques, found a way to do so and created a new line of masculine, light, strong and innovative eyewear called BLAC. All frames are handmade in Denmark in a machine factory. The production is complicated as it requires a very high standard of tools and three dimensional moulds. www.blac.dk
050 [ SEDUCING ] In February 2006 our Dutch model Cicely Telman flew with us to Dubai for a shoot in Dutch magazine Avantgarde and by the end of that year found herself back on the cover of the Dutch Elle. Since then she travels the world from fashion week to fashion week and walked shows for Marc Jacobs, Hèrmes, Jean Paul Gaultier. Missoni, Gianfranco Ferrè, Modernist and many others. In between she did editorials for magazines such as French Vogue, Avantgarde, WWD, i-D, Another Magazine, Italian Flair and Lula, was the face of Vivienne Westwood for her Fall 2007 campaign and was photographed by Juergen Teller for Marc Jacobs. For this first issue of Contemporary Luxury we spent a day in the studio in Amsterdam where we photographed her in a combination of couture and S/S 2010 sunwear. Cicely Telman PHOTOGRAPHY Allard Honigh | STYLING Bastiaan van Schaik [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
SUNGLASSES Jil Sander BODYPANTY Blue Blood
052 [ SEDUCING ] STRAPLESS DRESS D&G BODYPANTY Blue Blood BOOTS Iris van Herpen
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] BLACK CATSUIT Maison Portier SUNGLASSES Emilio Pucci
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] BLACK BOLERO WITH RHINESTONES Claes Iversen SLIP AND BRA Wolford BODYPANTY Blue Blood BOOTS Iris van Herpen
055 [ SEDUCING ]
056 [ SEDUCING ]
SUNGLASSES Jil Sander
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] BLACK CATSUIT Maison Portier BOOTS Iris van Herpen SUNGLASSES Fendi HAT Stylist Own
060 [ SEDUCING ] BLACK CATSUIT Maison Portier LEATHER JACKET Mattijs BOOTS Iris van Herpen SUNGLASSES Fendi
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] SUNGLASSES Emilio Pucci
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] BLACK DRESS WITH PINK BOW Louis Vuitton BOOTS Iris van Herpen
063 [ SEDUCING ] HAIR & MAKE-UP Rosemary van Liempt for Collistar en Kevin Murphy MODEL Cicely @ Paparazzi models ASSISTANTS PHOTOGRAPHY Josee van Dijk / Peter Gordijn ASSISTANTS STYLING Joel Davans / Mo Anwar
64 [ AMAZING ] Celebrating 40 years OF COUTURE EYEWEAR Another milestone in the history of eyewear as renowned eyewear designers Cutler and Gross celebrate their 40th anniversary this year. To celebrate they published a great book and re-launched some of their signature styles. Unsurpassed, often imitated and still seducing with this unique typical understated British style. As Graham Cutler says in the anniversary book “my idea of design is a bit old-fashioned. It should be practical, functional, then look good – in that order” Loved by artists, celebrities and fashion editors around the globe and worn by all those who have an eye for eternal design and style. www.cutlerandgross.com [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
067 [ REVEALING ] ic!berlin prefers to create trends rather than following them. Instead of acquiring expensive licences the company has a track record of inspiring co-ops with other creative guys. And although No Rubber Duck Freitag rarely cooperates with other brands, this time the Freitag brothers made an exception and designed two sunglasses styles for truckers which could be considered a tribute to Sam Peckinpah’s 1978 masterpiece “Convoy” with Kris Kristofferson. These sunglasses hide you, protect you, make you feel good and keep the wind out of your eyes. They come in a unique Freitag sleeve cut from used truck tarps. www.icberlin.com www.icberlin.com [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
068 [ SEDUCING ] PHOTOGRAPHY Allard Honigh | STYLING Bastiaan van Schaik [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
GLASSES Mykita JACKET Boss Black SHIRT Fred Perry TIE Profuomo BREAST-POCKET HANDKERCHIEF Stylists Own CHAIR Studio JSPR via Pols Potten FRAGRANCE Hermes - Eau d’Orange Verte
070 [ SEDUCING ]
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] GLASSES Stylist Own JACKET Hugo SHIRT Hugo TIE Boss Black CHAIR Studio JSPR via Pols Potten FRAGRANCE Chanel - Antaeus
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
073 [ SEDUCING ] GLASSES Modo JACKET Tiger of Sweden SHIRT Scapa TIE Profuomo CHAIR Studio JSPR via Pols Potten FRAGRANCE Gucci - Pour Homme
074 [ SEDUCING ]
GLASSES Paul Smith JACKET LCT SHIRT LCT TIE Salvatore Vacerra CHAIR Studio JSPR via Pols Potten FRAGRANCE Calvin Klein - Eternity [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
076 [ SEDUCING ]
GLASSES Tom Ford JACKET Scapa SHIRT Samsoe Samsoe CHAIR Studio JSPR via Pols Potten FRAGRANCE Tom Ford - Black Orchid [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] GLASSES Lindberg JACKET Burberry SHIRT Filippa K CHAIR Studio JSPR via Pols Potten FRAGRANCE Joop! - Homme
079 [ SEDUCING ] HAIR & MAKE-UP Marja Hermes MODEL Eddy Jordaan @ Tony Jones ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHY Josee van Dijk, Peter Gordijn ASSISTANT STYLING Joël Davans, Mo Anwar
nostalgic moments mome
e 081 [ AMAZING ] ents moments moment Since its founding in the sixties Austrian eyewear manufacturer Silhouette surprised again and again with new and innovative designs. The most recent one, the “Titan Minimal Art” became one of the best sold frames ever and is still the favourite of many spectacle wearers worldwide. But for this edition we choose to look back at the seventies when this same company shocked the world with a series of sunglasses called Futura. Instantly these sunglasses became as popular as the celebrities who wore them. They could be seen in movies like the French cult epos Emmanuelle and today are still “most desired” collector items. The Silhouette designs changed over the years but the spirit of the company remained the same. Never a dull moment, always on the edge and always searching for real new ways to make eyewear as comfortable and attractive as possible. w w w .silhouett e .c om
82 [ SEDUCING ] 25 SUNNY YEARS A tribute to Christian Roth and Eric Domège PHOTOGRAPHY Allard Honigh | STYLING Bastiaan van Schaik
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] SWEATER Mattijs
084 [ SEDUCING ] [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
SUNGLASSES Christian Roth
086 [ SEDUCING ] SUNGLASSES Christian Roth
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
088 [ SEDUCING ] GOLDEN CATSUIT Maison Portier SHOES Louis Vuitton BLACK HAT Stylist Own
RED DRESS Iceberg BLACK HAT Stylist Own
[ SEDUCING ] [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] WHITE “MUMMY” CATSUIT Iris van Herpen BRONZE METALLIC DRESS Iris van Herpen
SUNGLASSES Christian Roth
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
BLACK “GLADIATOR” DRESS Iris van Herpen SHOES Iris van Herpen HAIR & MAKE-UP Rosemary van Liempt for Collistar en Kevin Murphy MODEL Feline @ Paparazzi models / Amy @ SPS Modelmanagement ASSISTANTS PHOTOGRAPHY Josee van Dijk / Peter Gordijn ASSISTANTS STYLING Joel Davans / Mo Anwar 94 [ SEDUCING ]
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] SUNGLASSES Christian Roth BLACK HAT Stylist Own
96 [ REVEALING ]
EXEMPLARY Danish Ørgreen can be described as a little bit provocative. No sacred places or conventions for these Danish friends who started up their company about ten years ago and after sailing many years against the wind, today are very successful with colourful designs and sharp edged handmade styles in high-quality materials. Their first inspiration came from American classic cars of which they liked the combination of glamour and functionality and over the years their signature has become very recognizable. Ørgreen definitely has what eyewear needs. The founders have no ambitions to become the largest player in the field but know their responsibility to remain renewing, challenging and surprising all the time. www.orgreen.dk [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
Impressions of the catwalks in New York, Milan and Paris show decent black earthy natural tints and bright colours like red, purple and yellow. Inspiring as always!
99 [ INSPIRING ] Impressions of the catwalks in New York, Milan and Paris show decent black earthy natural tints and bright colours like red, purple and yellow. Inspiring as always! [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
100 [ INSPIRING ] black is back New York
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] ZERO MARIA CORNEJO DKNY G-STAR DONNA KARAN MICHAEL KORS MORELLO DIESEL PHILIP LIM MARC JACOBS CALVIN KLEIN G-STAR DKNY MARC JACOBS LACOSTE
102 [ INSPIRING ] down to earth Milan
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] MARNI D SQUARED D & G PRADA FENDI EMILIO PUCCI BOTTEGA VENETA ROBERTO CAVALLI ETRO ARMANI BURBERRY EMILIO PUCCI ETRO CNC COSTUME NATIONAL
104 [ INSPIRING ] true colours Paris
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] VALENTINO ELIE SAAB ISSEY MIYAKE BERNHARD WILLHELM VIVIENNE WESTWOOD LANVIN DIOR DIOR LOEWE NINA RICCI STELLA MCCARTNEY DIOR STELLA MCCARTNEY
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] TRENDSETTING Not only the Wayfarer itself but certainly the new Ray-Ban Colorize campaign both are unforgettable milestones in this year’s optical history. The iconic design has often been copied and inspired designers all over the world to similar shapes creating a vintage trend which now dominates the optical stores worldwide. www.rayban.com 106 [ EXCITING ]
Paris 107 [ REVEALING ] to Par s A woman in black after a sleepless night A devilish woman with the face of an angel A woman in an evening gown at the break of day Scandalous you say? Free, she says… An Yves Saint Laurent woman A PARISIENNE www.ysl.com aTribute i
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] Style black 80’s “ back to the black” an bee hive from d eye liner to &prouse in to the-house kohl and finge, l pughondon gareth goth new black
109 [ REVEALING ] Black IS BEAUTIFUL Lips, nails and of course eyes! There is no more dramatic way to declare your desire, separate your sensibility, celebrate your magnetism. They will surrender to a blackfire Glimmerglass, rapidblack penultimate eyeliner, a slash of greasepaint stick and the hot scratch of baby goth girl nail lacquer. Black is a way of life, a shadowy and mysterious figure of fantasy even for just one dark and dangerous night. Maybe combine it with a gorgeous pair of black vintage glasses and make it last until dawn! www.maccosmetics.com [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
110 [ INSPIRING ]
Amsterdam Fashion week BADGLEY MISCHKA
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With an unforgettable show at the Amsterdam Fashion Week Badgley Mischka not only launched their new Mark & James collection and conquered Europe in an instant, they also gave a new meaning to what can be best described as “glamorous” eyewear. Their 18 and 24 carat gold layered aviator shapes with real gold mirrored lenses looked gorgeous on both the boys and the girls. This night eyeglam was born and celebrated. Designer Sheila Vance of Sama, responsible for the Badgley Mischka eyewear collections, once again achieved what others say is unachievable. www.badgleymischka.com www.samaeyewear.net 113 [ INSPIRING ]
“One zip … 114 [ INSPIRING ]
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] and you are glamorous”
116 [ REVEALING ] se www.marchon.com
e Your sunglasses already were your best friend but with this gadget Ck Calvin Klein makes them even more desirable. Feel James Bond for a while with a unique pair of sunglasses featuring a hidden USB stick for all your personal secrets! erAt your [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] vice
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
119 British designer and craftsman Tom Davies offers its clients worldwide the opportunity to order real made to measure eyewear. Shape, material, size and details can be determined in close cooperation with the future wearer. www.tdtomdavies.com made to measure Eyewear made to measure Eyewear made to measure [ SURPRISING ]
120 [ REVEALING ] The perfect dress for all occasions LaDress is the dream of its founder, Simone van Trojen but also the dream of countless women worldwide. A perfect dress for all occasions. LaDress can be exclusively ordered through its website, which offers easy to use online measurement charts to help you determine your personal LaDress size. And...first fit means forever fit, because once you have found your perfect LaDress size, you can be assured of the exact same fit with your next purchase. With its mouse-to-house worldwide service each LaDress will be delivered to you in a luxurious handcrafted box making it a fabulous gift to yourself. From classy corporate to sexy stunning: LaDress is never out of style yet always styled to fashion. Check the website for your first purchase and be aware….you’ll get addicted!
[ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] CONTEMPORARY Store design Let’s take you with us on an endless journey to find the most beautiful places, stores and design items which could probably inspire you to reïnvent and redesign your own home, store or office. 121 [ INSPIRING ]
123 [ INSPIRING ] Loonen BRILLENMAKERS Housed in a monumental, beautifully restored old presbytery and surrounded by an amazing classical garden filled with statues, this Dutch optical store is certainly different from all other ones we know. Inside the combination of old elements and modern design create a warm and friendly atmosphere without being cosy. The stylish collection feels at home in this timeless space where large white walls and an old wooden floor make sure the frames and sunglasses get room to become the real stars on stage. www.loonen-brillen.nl [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
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125 [ INSPIRING ] Mykita Berlin eyewear designers Mykita recently opened a second flagship store in Vienna and plan the opening of a few more own outlets. Both stores in Vienna as well as in Berlin are designed by the founders of the company and feature a signature wall to exhibit the frames and sunglasses. The stores are completely in white allowing the eyewear to draw all attention. The Mykita owners love store design and for years already honour their best clients with a store design exhibition on the Mykita website. Their two own stores fit perfectly in this range of distinguishing eyewear design stores and independently operating opticians. www.mykita.com
High Tec
127 [ INSPIRING ] The latest display of well-known eyewear display designers Top Vision Group is called Stilo and clearly marks the development of fashion and design in optical stores worldwide. This new system shows the company’s dedication to design functional yet very stylish displays which, in combination with a well designed light plan, can meet the demand of architects and interior designers worldwide. www.topvisiongroup.com [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ] High Tec
Contemporary Luxery [ the eyewear issue, volume 1, A/W 2009 ]
129 [ INSPIRING ] hoet Theo designer Patrick Hoet is also responsible for the interior of the Hoet stores in Brussels and Bruges. The store in Brussels combines the optical department with a large showroom displaying Hoet’s furniture designs and accessories. www.hoet.be [ THE E YEWEAR ISSUE 2009 ]
INSPIRING seducing INFORMING reve aling amazing e x citing surprising
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